Making a Chess Board

Building any sort of box can be a touch of testing. Coving its sides can make it somewhat more drawn out. Yet, making a chessboard cover out of 64 little square squares of wood so all the corners match up flawlessly can be absolutely overpowering. Also, believe me – nothing gets as much examination as the highest point of a carefully assembled chessboard.

In any case, there is no motivation to be anxious about making a chessboard. Everything you need is some fundamental carpentry encounter, an all around tuned table saw and, above all, heaps of tolerance.

I handle this task in four stages:

• First I set up the wood.

• Next I make the chessboard, which will be inset in the case cover.

• Then I amass the container.

• And at long last I cut the cover off the container, introduce pivots and complete the piece.

Next, you have to recut the maple and walnut board into eight 2"-wide strips.

Next, you have to recut the maple and walnut board into eight extensive strips.

Likewise with any undertaking, quality materials are essential. For my chessboards, I utilize walnut and maple, albeit any differentiating woods will do. Select wood that is similarly dry, and joint and plane it to thickness. As usual, your wood must be straight.

8 Strips = 64 Squares

A chessboard is comprised of 64 square squares. Thirty-two squares are dim and 32 are light. In the event that the sides of the squares don't line up legitimately, the differentiating hues will make any crevices greatly recognizable and the task will be destroyed. The possibility of precisely cutting and sticking together 64 pieces is overwhelming, so don't do it. Rather, make the squares in strips.

First and foremost cut four pieces of walnut and four segments of maple both 2″ wide and deliberately edge-paste them together, keeping the finishes adjusted. At the point when the paste has dried, valid up one end by crosscutting the amassed board on your table saw.

At that point reglue the strips, substituting between the species to shape a chessboard.

At that point reglue the strips, rotating between the species to frame a chessboard.

Note: You would prefer not to move the table saw's wall to do this. Utilize a precise miter gage or crosscut sled. At that point, with the wall still set at 2″, crosscut the board into all inclusive strips once more. Here are a few privileged insights to fruitful square cutting:

• Make beyond any doubt your table saw's sharpened steel is situated at 90° to the table and your table saw's wall is flawlessly parallel to the cutting edge.

• Don't move the table saw's wall between cuts.

• Use a sharpened steel stiffener to stay away from any possibility of razor sharp edge vacillate.

• Keep the razor sharp edge low to the work (one tooth over the wood is a decent general guideline).

• Try not to interruption mostly through a cut. This will deliver a somewhat more extensive cut at that part, which would be extremely observable on a chessboard.

A straight-edged board cinched over the table saw goes about as a wall when cutting the bay.

A straight-edged board cinched over the table saw goes about as a wall when cutting the bay.

You now have eight pieces of wood 2″ wide. Turn each other strip end for end and paste them back together, as demonstrated in photograph 3. Verify you stick the pieces back together on a level surface and utilize a dance like the one I utilized as a part of the photo.

After the paste has had sufficient energy to cure, you can plane or sand all surfaces to evacuate any abnormalities. In the event that you claim a planer, unplug it. The grain of the pieces will be running in distinctive headings in light of the development strategy we utilized and there is a decent risk of some extreme tear-out. For quite a long time I hand-planed and scratched the surface smooth. Nowadays I utilized a drum sander and it meets expectations fine and dandy.

Presently cut the furrow around the edges of the chessboard for the splines that protected the board in the cover. This should be possible by making a few goes on your table saw with the razor sharp edge set up to 1/4″. At that point plane a light chamfer around the outside top surface of the barricade and sand in stages to its last coarseness (I go to #600-coarseness). The underside of the cover will be obvious when opened, so verify you sand both sides.

Coving the Sides

I assemble the top as a feature of the sides, then cut the cover free on the table saw. The container has four sides of equivalent length with mitered corners. To strengthen the miter joints, I utilize a spline, which includes a considerable measure of quality and an unobtrusive outline component. I additionally like to add an inlet to the sides of the container.

Coving, a demonstration that is effortlessly accomplished utilizing your table saw, should be possible before building the case many, many. I lean toward doing it some time recently, just in the event that a cataclysm or something to that affect happens, pulverizing the greater part of my work to that point.

The method is truly very basic. Fundamentally, simply pass the wood over the sharpened steel at an edge and take light cuts, possibly 1/16″ at once. I utilize a 80-tooth razor sharp edge in light of the fact that it delivers a cleaner cut and abandons me with less scratching to do a while later. Less scratching is dependably something to be thankful for.

To make this bay, slope the sharpened steel to 45°. This gives something drawing nearer an allegorical bend, yet changing the point of methodology and the slant of the razor sharp edge can deliver a mixed bag of profiles.

Brace a straight-edged board over the saw to go about as a wall, then make numerous passes. In some cases if the workpiece is long and only i'm, I'll clasp a second board parallel to the first so the workpiece goes between the two, equitable to keep things running easily. The pieces for this task will be more than four feet long, so I prescribe utilizing the second guide.

As a security safeguard, dependably utilize legitimate push squares when coving. It's a ton like jointing: The workpiece should be held down over the cutting edge, and that ought to never be finished by hand. Once you've raised the saw cutting edge to the completed stature (around 3/8″) the coving is finished.

Building the Box

When the coving is done, slice the side pieces to unpleasant length and after that precisely miter them. Next, utilizing your table saw, cut 1/8″-thick x 1/8″-profound kerfs for the splines in the mitered finishes. As opposed to calculating the cutting edge, I utilize a custom made sled. In spite of the fact that I'm ready to point my cutting edge, I discover it to be extremely ungainly.

To prevent shred out, constantly back the cut with a bit of scrap wood so that when the razor sharp edge leaves the work it does as such neatly. These openings should be kept genuinely near to within corner so they don't get through into the more slender territory made by the coving. To make the splines, tear a bit of walnut only under 1/8″ thick on the table saw and crosscut them only under 1/4″ with a fine handsaw. The grain on the splines must be opposite, not parallel, to the length, for extra quality.

Presently cut the 1/4″ x 1/4″ section within the container sides for the base plywood piece and the splines for the chessboard, which settle ready cut in the edges of the chessboard. Try not to paste these parts in. It's important to permit some buoy, pleasing regular changes.

Next, sand all within appearances of the container and apply covering tape to within edges of the case sides to help assemble any paste that crushes out. Veiling tape with paste on it is less demanding to uproot than solidified paste in the corners.

At that point you can dry-amass the crate to guarantee that everything fits appropriately. On the off chance that it does, paste up the piece on a decent, level surface. My splines amplified a bit over the top edge so I pared them off with a sharp etch later. Never abandon them beneath the surface – it looks ghastly.

Rather than clips, I've discovered I improve results wrapping a few goes of surgical tubing around the crate, as indicated in photograph 7. Surgical tubing can be extended firmly, applying weight equitably to the joints. This is difficult to do in case only you're, so you may need to begin with braces. When the crate parts are situated appropriately, put the tubing on and uproot the clips.

Subsequent to checking to verify everything is square, let the container sit overnight. The following day, clean up any crushed out paste at the joints then painstakingly cut around the outside of the crate to evacuate the cover, as seen at right. The edges of the container and top will require a little cleanup, something you can do with a sharp piece plane.

Building the Base

As I would see it, this crate looks more rich on a base. I make a straightforward base utilizing two bits of 3/4″ walnut, 1-5/8″ wide and 1/4″ more extended than the sides. I miter the closures, then stick them consecutive with twofold sided tape.

On the middle line, penetrate a 3/4″-measurement gap 2″ from every end. At that point slice through the middle along the length. Utilizing a band saw or jigsaw, remove the waste between the openings and clean this up utilizing a piece plane and scratch. This will yield four 3/4″ x 3/4″ sides, which can be mitered and stuck together to deliver the base. This, thus, can be stuck to the base of the chessboard.

I don't utilize a spline in the base's miters in light of the fact that with everything stuck together, quality isn't an issue. Before doing the last paste up, plane a light chamfer along the top edge to match the one at the chessboard's top edge.

Additionally make sure you clean up the coved sides. I like to do this with handcrafted scrubbers. I utilize old handsaw edges I get at carport deals and slice them to fit the profile. A bit of sandpaper wrapped around a vast dowel likewise will work.

Checkmate

When you play chess, your right-hand corner square must be white. I like to open the cover like a book so I put the depends on a side. Along these lines both players can investigate the case when its opened to evacuate their chess pieces.

I mortise the pivots into the container and top, somewhat not as much as a large portion of the tallness of the pivot. Once the cover has been fitted, the outside can be sanded and afterward the entire piece can be done in whatever way you pick.

My wife lined the base of the crate with some felt while I made dividers to discrete the pieces. This isn't generally essential, however it is a decent shock when the top is opened.

.......more to come..

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